Understanding Comedogenic Ratings: What They Can — and Cannot — Tell You
If you have ever researched facial oils, you have probably come across the term comedogenic. It is commonly used to describe the tendency of an ingredient or finished product to contribute to comedone formation, such as clogged-looking pores.
You may also see oils assigned numerical ratings from 0 to 5. These ratings can be useful as a general reference, but they should not be treated as guarantees of how an oil or finished cosmetic will behave on your skin.
First: How Do You Pronounce Comedogenic?
A common pronunciation is: kom-ee-doh-JEN-ik.
The word relates to comedones, the term used for clogged hair follicles that may appear as blackheads or whiteheads.
Understanding the Common 0–5 Scale
The scale below is often used online and in cosmetic ingredient references as a general guide. It is better understood as a comparative reference rather than a prediction.
Why the Rating Is Only One Piece of the Picture
A comedogenic number does not tell you everything about a cosmetic. How your skin responds can depend on many factors, including:
- Your individual skin characteristics.
- The amount of an ingredient present in the finished formula.
- Whether the product is rinse-off or leave-on.
- The combination of ingredients used in the complete formula.
- How much product is applied and how frequently it is used.
- Your skincare routine and other products used at the same time.
This is also why a single oil cannot automatically be described as “pore-clogging” or “non-pore-clogging” for every person.
What Fatty Acids Have to Do With Botanical Oils
Botanical oils contain different proportions of fatty acids. Those proportions help influence properties such as texture, spreadability, richness, skin feel, and oxidative stability.
Fatty-acid composition is useful when formulating skincare, but it should not be used by itself to predict whether an ingredient will clog pores.
Alpha-Linolenic Acid
An omega-3 fatty acid naturally present in some botanical oils. It contributes to the overall composition and skin feel of those oils.
Linoleic Acid
An omega-6 fatty acid found in many lightweight botanical oils. Its concentration can influence texture and conditioning characteristics.
Oleic Acid
An omega-9 fatty acid commonly found in plant oils. Oils higher in oleic acid often have a richer, more emollient feel.
Palmitic Acid
A saturated fatty acid that can contribute body, conditioning, and a richer feel to botanical oils and cosmetic formulations.
Palmitoleic Acid
An omega-7 fatty acid found naturally in selected botanical oils, including Sea Buckthorn Seed Oil.
Stearic Acid
A saturated fatty acid that can contribute emolliency, body, consistency, and texture to cosmetic formulations.
Lauric Acid
A saturated fatty acid found in oils such as Babassu Oil. It contributes to the characteristic texture and behavior of these botanical oils.
Eicosenoic & Erucic Acids
Long-chain fatty acids found prominently in oils such as Jojoba. They contribute to its distinctive glide, spreadability, and lightweight wax-like skin feel.
Botanical Oils Used by Innova Essential Skin
Below are several oils used in Innova Essential Skin formulas, along with commonly cited comedogenic ratings. These numbers are provided as educational reference points rather than guarantees.
Orbignya Oleifera (Babassu) Seed Oil
Common fatty acids: Lauric, Myristic, Oleic, Palmitic, Capric, and Caprylic Acids.
Babassu Seed Oil is a botanical emollient that softens readily on contact with the skin. It is selected for its lightweight glide and smooth application and helps leave skin feeling soft and conditioned.
Adansonia Digitata (Baobab) Seed Oil
Common fatty acids: Oleic, Linoleic, Palmitic, Stearic, and Alpha-Linolenic Acids.
Baobab Seed Oil is used as a botanical emollient and conditioning ingredient. It contributes to a rich yet comfortable skin feel and helps soften and condition dry-feeling skin.
Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil
Composition: Jojoba is technically a liquid wax ester rather than a conventional triglyceride oil. It contains long-chain wax esters associated with its distinctive glide and stability.
Jojoba is selected for its lightweight conditioning properties, smooth application, and spreadability. It helps soften and condition the skin without an overly heavy feel.
Rosa Canina (Rosehip) Seed Oil
Common fatty acids: Linoleic, Alpha-Linolenic, Oleic, Palmitic, and Stearic Acids.
Rosehip Seed Oil is a lightweight botanical emollient selected for its conditioning properties and skin feel. It helps soften dry-feeling skin and contributes to a smooth, supple-looking finish.
Hippophae Rhamnoides (Sea Buckthorn) Seed Oil
Common fatty acids: Linoleic, Alpha-Linolenic, Oleic, Palmitic, and Stearic Acids.
Sea Buckthorn Seed Oil is a deeply colored botanical emollient selected for its conditioning properties and contribution to the texture, color, and skin feel of oil-based formulas. It helps leave dry-feeling skin feeling soft and conditioned.
Calophyllum Inophyllum (Tamanu) Seed Oil
Common fatty acids: Oleic, Linoleic, Palmitic, and Stearic Acids.
Tamanu Seed Oil is a botanical carrier oil selected for its rich skin feel and contribution to oil-based formulas. It helps condition and soften dry-feeling skin while contributing to a smooth, comfortable finish.
What a Comedogenic Rating Does Not Tell You
It Does Not Predict Your Individual Response
Two people can use the same oil or cosmetic and experience very different results.
It Does Not Evaluate the Finished Formula
An ingredient may be only one small part of a product. The complete formulation matters.
It Does Not Measure Product Safety
A comedogenic rating is not a safety rating and should not be interpreted as one.
It Does Not Diagnose Skin Concerns
The scale is an ingredient-reference concept and should not be used to diagnose or treat acne or other skin conditions.
How Innova Essential Skin Uses This Information
When developing a formula, comedogenic references may be one of many pieces of information considered. They are not used as the sole basis for determining whether an oil belongs in a product.
We also consider the intended cosmetic use, ingredient ratios, texture, spreadability, conditioning properties, sensory characteristics, product stability, and how the complete formula performs.
The Bottom Line
Comedogenic ratings can be a helpful starting point when learning about skincare oils, but they should not be treated as absolute rules. A low number does not guarantee that an ingredient will work for everyone, and a higher number does not mean an ingredient is unsuitable for every skin type.
The better approach is to look at the complete formulation, understand the purpose of its ingredients, introduce new products thoughtfully, and pay attention to how your own skin responds.
